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La Grenouille (restaurant)

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Coordinates: 40°45′34.6″N 73°58′32.11″W / 40.759611°N 73.9755861°W / 40.759611; -73.9755861
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La Grenouille
La Grenouille in January 2024
Map
Restaurant information
Established1962 (1962)[1]
ClosedSeptember 2024 (2024-09)
Owner(s)Philippe Masson
Previous owner(s)The Massons, Charles Sr. and Gisèle
Head chefPhilippe Masson
Food typeFrench
Dress codeJacket required
Street address3 East 52nd Street
CityNew York
StateNew York
Postal/ZIP Code10022
CountryUnited States
Coordinates40°45′34.6″N 73°58′32.11″W / 40.759611°N 73.9755861°W / 40.759611; -73.9755861
Websitehttps://www.la-grenouille.com/

La Grenouille (French for "The Frog") was a French restaurant at 3 East 52nd Street between Fifth Avenue and Madison Avenue in Midtown Manhattan, New York City.[1][2] Founded in 1962 by former Henri Soulé apprentice Charles Masson Sr. and his wife Gisèle, later with sons Philippe and Charles, La Grenouille became a location of choice among New York, U.S., and eventually international diners, including designers from the nearby Garment District of Manhattan.[3]

The restaurant announced in September 2024 that it would close permanently.[4][5] When the closure was announced, La Grenouille was the last operating New York French haute cuisine restaurant from the 1960s, and it remained a highly rated restaurant.[5] Staff at La Grenouille were represented by UNITE HERE Local 100.[6]

History

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The building at 3 East 52nd Street dates back to 1871.[7] La Grenouille, the restaurant that now occupies the building, was founded in 1962 by Charles Masson Sr., a former Henri Soulé apprentice,[8] and his wife Gisèle.[9] Charles Masson Sr. had worked under Henri Soulé in Soule's original Le Pavillon restaurant at the 1939 World's Fair.

After the death of Charles Sr. in 1975,[9] Gisèle continued to manage the restaurant until 2010. Their eldest son, Charles Jr., assisted Gisèle with her management duties from 1975 until 1994. At that time, Gisèle's younger son Philippe took over Charles Jr's duties until 2000, whereupon Charles Jr. returned. Gisèle died on November 5, 2014.[10] After her death, Charles Jr. stepped down as manager in 2014 amidst a dispute with his brother.[11][10][12]

La Grenouille was operated by Philippe Masson, from 2014. It was last operating New York French haute cuisine restaurant from the 1960s,[13] having outlasted other well-known French restaurants like Lutèce, which closed in 2004.[3]

In 2014, Charles Masson Jr. stepped down from his longtime role as general manager amid a bitter, longstanding dispute with his younger brother Philippe, who then took over direction of the restaurant.[14][11][10][12] In 2021, the dispute between the brothers even led to fears that La Grenouille might close.[15][16]

In June 2023, the restaurant was closed by Con Ed personnel when new gas meter detected a gas leak. The restaurant reopened on November 3, 2023.[17] The restaurant building was subsequently placed for sale in early 2024.[18] La Grenouille announced on September 12, 2024, that it would close at the end of the week.[4][5]

Antoine de Saint-Exupéry and Le Petit Prince

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Earlier in the 20th century, before La Grenouille occupied the building of 3 East 52nd Street, the French painter Bernard LaMotte has his studio in the upper floors. An informal salon of creative people visited him, including Charlie Chaplin, Marlene Dietrich, Jean Gabin, and the writer and aviator Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, who wrote a good deal of Le Petit Prince there.[9] In 2000, La Section Americaine du Souvenir Francais, put up a plaque outside the restaurant, memorializing the aviator and writer Antoine de Saint-Exupery, who often visited the building while in exile from German-occupied France during World War II.

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The menu of La Grenouille is essentially entirely "haute French cuisine,"[1][19] with menus presenting the French names of classic and more modern dishes, followed by the English translation, and an English description.[20] Classic dinner menu staples include quenelles de brochet, sole grillée (grilled sole), sautéed frog legs, and the chocolate and Grand Marnier soufflés for dessert.[21][19] As of June 2023, the three-course prix-fixe "main seating" menu was $185 per person and the two-course prix-fixe main seating menu was $155 per person. There is also a "Late Night Jazz Menu" and a take-out menu.[21]

Renown

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Aside from its haute French cuisine, La Grenouille is notable for its clientele, and is considered a location of choice among New York, U.S., and international diners.[2] A segment of this clientele includes designers from the nearby New York fashion district;[2] it has been spoken of as a hotspot for its notables, e.g. Elle magazine creative director Joe Zee.[22] Throughout its history, La Grenouille's patrons and visitors have included Salvador Dalí,[9] Carolina Herrera,[19] Pauline Trigère,[3] former New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg, Woody Allen and more.

In addition, the restaurant is famous for its lavish floral arrangements and romantic lighting,[9] a tradition started by Charles Masson Sr. and continued by his sons Charles Jr.[23][19] and Philippe Masson. In 2008, Charles Jr. recounted for Vanity Fair magazine the story of his father painting individual lightbulbs with peach-colored paint to achieve the desired lighting effect, until G.E. started producing a similar bulb.[19] When G.E. eventually discontinued the bulb in 1974, a crisis was averted when the Massons were able to custom order 50,000 similar lightbulbs from Westinghouse.[19]

In 1972 W magazine referred to it one of "Les Six, the last bastions of grand luxe dining in New York." The other five were Lutèce, La Caravelle, La Côte Basque, Lafayette, and Quo Vadis.[24][19] La Grenouille is the last operating New York French haute cuisine restaurant from the 1960s, a time when it dominated New York City's French haute cuisine.[25]

In 2012, the restaurant won the James Beard Foundation Award for Outstanding Service.[26]

References

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  1. ^ a b c "New York City, Rating and Reviews: La Grenouille". Zagat. 2015. Retrieved April 28, 2015. Still 'extraordinaire' after 'so many years', this Midtown 'institution' leaves 'all your senses satisfied' with 'superb' haute French cuisine, 'pampering' service and a 'soigné' setting festooned with 'soaring floral arrangements'; jackets and deep pockets are de rigueur here, but it's 'well worth the splurge' for a 'memorable' meal at what is surely the 'last of its breed'; P.S. the departure of its beloved front-of-house leader, Charles Masson, has loyalists waiting to see what happens next.
  2. ^ a b c "History". La Grenouille.
  3. ^ a b c Nemy, Enid (February 14, 2002). "Pauline Trigère, Exemplar of American Style, Dies at 93". The New York Times.
  4. ^ a b Orlow, Emma (September 12, 2024). "Midtown Powerhouse La Grenouille Is Closing Following Years of Drama". Eater NY. Retrieved September 13, 2024.
  5. ^ a b c Wells, Pete (September 12, 2024). "La Grenouille, Vestige of New York's Old-School French Dining, Will Close". The New York Times. Retrieved September 13, 2024.
  6. ^ "Eat Union – UNITE HERE Local 100".
  7. ^ Gray, Christopher (April 22, 2001). "Streetscapes/3 East 52nd Street; An 1871 Building With a Plaque Honoring a Visitor". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved June 29, 2023.
  8. ^ Van Gelder, Lawrence (February 6, 1975). "Charles Masson, Owner Of La Grenouille, Is Dead". The New York Times.
  9. ^ a b c d e McGrath, Douglas (August 7, 2008). "An Immovable Feast". Vanity Fair. Retrieved June 29, 2023.
  10. ^ a b c Weber, Bruce (November 14, 2014). "Gisèle Masson Dies at 89; Fed the Famous at La Grenouille". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved June 29, 2023.
  11. ^ a b Robinson, Whitney (September 6, 2016). "Two French Brothers Duke It Out in New York's Fine Dining Scene". Town & Country. Retrieved June 29, 2023.
  12. ^ a b Fabricant, Florence; Moskin, Julia (March 26, 2014). "From France to Midtown, a Rift Rocks La Grenouille". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved June 29, 2023.
  13. ^ "La Grenouille - Restaurants in Midtown East, New York". Time Out New York.
  14. ^ Krishna, Priya (November 1, 2021). "Live at La Grenouille: Caviar, Crystal and the Owner's Flashy Crooning". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved June 29, 2023.
  15. ^ Ong, Bao (August 23, 2021). "One of NYC's Most Iconic French Restaurants May Shutter Amid Family Feud". Eater NY. Retrieved June 29, 2023.
  16. ^ Boniello, Kathianne (August 21, 2021). "NYC hot spot La Grenouille may shutter amid brothers' battle". New York Post. Retrieved June 29, 2023.
  17. ^ Cuozzo, Steve (November 5, 2023). "Famed NYC French restaurant La Grenouille reopens after gas leak". New York Post. Retrieved November 6, 2023.
  18. ^ Velsey, Kim (January 17, 2024). "La Grenouille's Building Is Up for Sale". Curbed. Retrieved September 13, 2024.
  19. ^ a b c d e f g Martin, Brett (January 5, 2012). "La Grenouille Turns 50". Bon Appétit. Retrieved June 30, 2023.
  20. ^ "La Grenouille Menu". New York Magazine. 2015. Archived from the original on April 9, 2015. Retrieved April 28, 2015.
  21. ^ a b "Menu". La Grenouille. Retrieved June 30, 2023.
  22. ^ Vallis, Alexandra (March 20, 2009). "Elle Creative Director Joe Zee Styles Julia Roberts, Loves Roadside Burritos and Setagaya". Grub Street. Retrieved April 28, 2015.
  23. ^ Masson, Charles (1994). The Flowers of La Grenouille. Crown Publishing Group. ISBN 978-0-517-59057-7.
  24. ^ Colatello, Bob (January 30, 2012). "Here's to the Ladies Who Lunched!". Vanity Fair. Retrieved February 19, 2016.
  25. ^ Sheraton, Mimi (December 24, 2007). "The Frog at Forty-Five". The New Yorker. Retrieved April 28, 2015.
  26. ^ Chou, Jessica (May 8, 2013). "The James Beard Foundation Award Winners for 2012". The Daily Meal. Retrieved February 12, 2019.

Further reading

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